Art Supplies: Where To Find Them and What to Buy
CONTENTS:
Where to purchase art supplies?
Physical Store
How to find art supply stores?
Online Store
What to buy?
Sketching and Drawing
Sketchbooks
Pen
Color Pencils
Graphite Pencils
Pencil Crayons
Other Drawing Surfaces
Ink
Nibs
Painting
Gouache
Watercolor
Brushes
Brush Soap
Field Box Set
Paper
Acrylic
Which colors should you get?
Mediums
Brushes
Brush Holder
Fixative
What is a fixative?
Life-Drawing
Comments and Questions
Become a Mili Fay Art Friend
Coming in March 2011
Thank you for reading Art: Help!
--------------------------------------
Where to purchase art supplies?
As with everything these days, there are two ways you can purchase art supplies: in a physical store, or from an online store.
Physical Store
You may find certain art supplies in business supply stores, discount department stores, discount stores, or even your local pharmacy or post office. If you know what you are looking for, and if you are not overly concerned with the quality of merchandise available, purchasing supplies from these store may save you some money. However, if you are new to art purchases and/or if you are looking for quality supplies, I highly recommend you find your way to an art supply store--a store that only sells art supplies. These stores can be found as dingy little shops, full of history and charm (sometimes difficult to locate from the street), or they can be huge sleek chain-stores geared to the fast-paced modern consumer.
These stores contain supplies geared towards professional artists, and some supplies geared toward student artists. You need to be careful and purchase the grade you need. Supplies for the professional artist are generally better in quality, but are also more expensive. I find that student grade supplies meet most my needs, and if you are just beginning, I would suggest you stick to the student grade if you do not have money to burn, because as you will soon find out, art supplies can quickly eat away your budget.
Another reason I recommend you purchase your art supplies in an art supply store is that the customer service staff is usually made up of young artists. If you have no idea what you are doing in the store, are overwhelmed by different brand variations, and the sheer volume of "stuff"--don't be afraid to ask questions, and listen to their recommendations.
Art supply stores also offer individual items for sale that other stores may offer in sets; for example: pencil crayons, markers, pencils, pens, etc. As you (or the artist in your family) begin to practice art, you will find that you tend to use more of one color than the other, or a particular size of pen, or grade of pencil. Only in an art supply store do you have the ability to purchase individual items you may need. What's even more important: you can test them before buying!
Some stores have membership rewards or student discounts, so be sure to ask.
How to find art supply stores?
One word: Google. Just Google "art supplies" or "art store" in your area and, unless you are living in a truly remote location, Google will suggest a store (or stores) near you. If nothing pops up, art stores are generally found near art schools. Visit a school and ask an art teacher where you may find professional art supplies.
If you are living in Toronto, Ontario, here is a link listing the best art supply stores in the city: http://www.blogto.com/toronto/the_best_art_supply_stores_in_toronto/
Online Store
Even if you intend to purchase your supplies online, I suggest you first visit a physical art store and do some research, so you will know what to order. If you do not have an art store near you, I recommend you do research on the Internet. Find forums and ask questions if you are not sure what to get. At the end of this article I include a list of materials I like to use. They may not be the best, but they work for me and are a good starting point.
Shopping online you have many options. You can purchase supplies from chain art supply stores (such as www.currys.com, www.deserres.ca, www.dickblick.com) online stores, brand manufacturers (if you are buying in bulk, you may wish to contact their suppliers), or individual sellers (eBay or Amazon).
Be careful when you are purchasing from individual sellers, because they may not give you exactly what you need. That is why you need to gather as much information about your product as possible, and use caution.
Try to find a store that offers discounts and free shipping, because art supplies add up, and I recommend buying them in bulk--if they can keep, so that you can take advantage of free shipping.
Personally, I have not had much experience online shopping when it comes to art supplies, because there are many art supply stores in Toronto. I did purchase my animation disk directly from Chromacolour and there is a Borden and Riley Paper I love that they stopped selling in Canada. Getting hold of that paper (100% Rag Drawing #627) was a nightmare! I contacted the suppliers, but because I did not need a huge bulk of pads, I had to go through an art store, which added my order to their inventory order... It took 6 weeks to get this paper, but it is my favorite for illustrating, so it was worth it. (Perhaps I should advise you to make sure there is plenty of inventory available before you fall in love with a particular paper, pen, pencil...)
What to buy?
If you are a beginner, you will be overwhelmed by the amount of "stuff" you find in an art supply store. Without guidance, I have spent a lot of money on supplies I did not use more than once, or twice. Experimentation is good in the beginning, because as you develop your style of drawing, painting, sculpting--you will find tools that work best for you. However, experimentation is expensive. For example, I have bought $5.00 art pen for sketching, only to discover that the ordinary office pen gives me a better line (6 for 1$).
So, hoping to save you money, below I list art supplies I find most useful.
SKETCHING AND DRAWING
If you wish to experiment consider purchasing different kinds of loose-leaf paper and sowing them or clipping them into a sketchbook.
Sketchbooks:
I used Canson (http://en.canson.com/) spiral-bound sketchbook size 9" x 12" when I was younger, because I loved that the pages could easily detach. However, once I became more mobile with my sketching, I found the spiral binding annoying; it would twist, rip into my paper, and/or snag against fabric.
Since 2006 I have been using Daler-Rowney Cachet Original Classic Sketchbook (http://www.daler-rowney.com/en/content/classic). It is hardcover, and a bit heavier than the Canson sketchbook, but I also got the 9" x 6" size--I find this size is perfect for me, because it is not too big to fit into my bag, and not too small that I have to draw tiny drawings--though I do draw tiny most of the time when I sketch, since I focus on gestures and not details. I also find the paper sturdy enough to withstand some watercolor sketching. If I draw something on a loose-leaf paper that I like, I also tend to glue such drawings into my sketchbook using rubber cement, somewhat toxic, but the best glue in the world! Why? Because you can use it to glue your papers smoothly (paper will not wrinkle), if the paper is sturdy enough, you can peal it away like a sticker, you can use it to mask areas you want to leave white when painting (watercolor), and you can use it to create different effects (for example marble).
Pen:
I prefer to sketch with a pen, because it cannot be erased. If I draw something crappy, I move on to the next sketch, and I do not fiddle with a bad drawing trying desperately to make it work, even though deep down I know it is past the point of no return. I have recently discovered a new pen I'm obsessed with. It's Pilot G-TEC-C4. The ink does not bleed on normal sketch paper, the line is thin and very dark, and the pen feels good to hold.
Color Pencils:
If I feel the need to do some tonal work I use the well tried animation tool: Prismacolour Col-Erase blue pencil (http://www.prismacolor.com/products/colored-pencils/col-erase). So much more appealing than simple graphite, but unlike pencil crayons, it can be erased! You can buy them individually in many different colors. I got into the habit of drawing all my rough work with this pencil, cleaning it up with ink and then erasing the pencil--speeds up drawing time immeasurably.
Graphite Pencils:
If you have to use a pencil, I recommend the Staedtler brand (http://www.staedtler.ca/Mars_ergosoft_ca). I love their graphite and you have a great range hard to soft. For sketching I would use HB or 2B.
Pencil Crayons:
I recommend the Faber and Castell (http://www.faber-castell.ca/49338/Products/Art-Graphic/Art-Graphic-product-line/fcv2_index.aspx). Smoother and less waxy than Prismacolour (though Prismacolour are great if you want to use them over acrylic paint). You can also purchase these individually in certain art supply stores.
Other Drawing Surfaces:
Borden and Riley #37 Translucent Visual Bond Layout Paper
(http://www.bordenandriley.com/zoom/37.html). Wonderful paper for tracing or working with markers. I use it to clean up my rough drawing before I trace them onto watercolor paper. Gives me another layer of refinement towards the finished work. I like the 14" x17" size, because it fits comfortably over my animation disk for tracing, and if I need something smaller I can always cut the paper into smaller pieces.
Borden and Riley #627 Rag Drawing Paper (http://www.bordenandriley.com/zoom/627.html). My favorite paper in the world. Though B&R recommend this paper for pencil, charcoal, calligraphy, ink and other medium, I love to use it with watercolor. It is thin enough so I can easily trace my drawing, and yet sturdy enough to withstand many washes.
Ink:
Windsor and Newton have a fine collection of inks, but I find them too watery. Speedball ink is great if you wish to just ink in black. However if you want color, you need FW Acrylic Ink (http://www.dickblick.com/products/daler-rowney-fw-acrylic-water-resistant-artists-ink/). I use the sepia ink in my illustrations. Once dry I can paint over with watercolor without worrying that the ink would bleed.
Nibs:
For inking I use a traditional dipping pen. The best nibs to get for drawing are called crow-quill nibs.
PAINTING
Tip: keep tubes of paint in closed jars to keep them from drying out.
Gouache:
If you are a beginner KEEP AWAY from gouache!
It is a wonderful painting medium, but very difficult to control if you have never painted before. Also, it is ridiculously expensive. So, for now, just keep away from gouache.
(If you really want to paint in gouache, leave a comment, and I'll give you some tips.)
Watercolor:
Watercolor comes in tubes and cakes. When I read books about watercolor painting, most professionals prefer tubes over cakes, but I have painted with cakes all my life, and have not run into a problem. It may depend on my technique, because I never needed a thick soupy mixture of color, but who knows?
Gordon MacKenzie wrote a wonderful book on watercolor painting (I have just begun to study it) called "The Complete Watercolorist's Essential Notebook"
(http://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Watercolorists-Essential-Notebook-experimentation/dp/1440309051/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328132077&sr=8-1-fkmr0). I suggest you get your hands on this book if you are serious about painting with watercolor.
In the book MacKenzie suggests you purchase tube colors; warm and cools of the three primary colors (red, yellow and blue) plus a few unsaturated colors (colors not found on the color wheel--such as burnt sienna, raw umber, indigo...). I like using Cobalt, Ultramarine and Prussian blue; Cadmium Yellow Light or Lemon Yellow and Cadmium Yellow Deep; Cadmium Red Deep, Cadmium Red Light, Red Rose Deep; Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and Sepia. According to MacKenzie you can get all of these colors from Winsor and Newton--Artist brand (W&N--Cotman is poor quality), except Raw Umber. You should get Raw Umber from Maimer, Binney & Smith, Lefranc & Bourgeois, Winsor & Newton--Cotman, Holbein, or Daler-Rowney. Highest quality Prussian Blue comes from Lukas brand.
My friend recommended Yarka Watercolor (http://www.dickblick.com/products/yarka-st-petersburg-professional-watercolor-pans/) cakes to me and I have been using them ever since. They last forever, remain moist and handle like a dream--and I have the student version!
Tip: With watercolor I use the white plastic trays (you can also use plastic egg cartons, just place them over a white sheet of paper, so you can see your color ), I mix the color I want in the cup of the tray, add water, let the pigment settle to the bottom, clean my brush, saturate it in colored water (without touching the bottom of the tray) and paint in layers--this keeps my paintings from getting muddy.
Brushes.
I use synthetic, round, sable hair brushes. The best brushes out there are natural hair, Kolinsky, red sable brushes, but they are dreadfully expensive, so for now I make do with synthetic. A good round brush will give you a sharp pointed tip when wet and saturated with color, so that you can paint fine areas as well as wide areas.
Brush Soap.
Always, ALWAYS, clean your brushes when you are done using them--even if you are taking a break. NEVER leave your brush sitting in the water jar. You can purchase special brush cleaning soaps that are not that expensive, but I recommend them for good brush care (I think Dove soap may work as well, but I'm not sure). You will definitely need this brush soap for your acrylic brushes. (http://www.generalpencil.com/gpc_products_masters.html). This is a soap I have. The following is the link to other soaps for brushes. (http://www.hofcraft.com/paintingaccessories-handbrushcleanerstubs.htm)
Field Box Set.
My absolute favorite watercolor product is Winsor and Newton Artist's Watercolor Field Box Set (http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-artists-watercolor-field-box-set/). It is pricey, but I do not travel without it. Best investment I ever made. You can buy Cotman versions, which are cheaper, but they are more cumbersome.
Paper.
Arches is the best paper to get. If you want a textured surface get the cold-pressed Arches pad. If you want a smoother surface get a hot-pressed Arches pad. I recommend you purchase pads, because they are already pre-stretched. However, if you know you'll need to trace, you my get loose-leaf paper.
(http://www.dickblick.com/products/arches-watercolor-blocks/)
Acrylic:
I have been using Liquitex Acrylic since Sheridan College, only to discover that my favorite red (Alizarin Crimson) is not lightfast--it fades quickly.
I have recently finished reading "Color and Light" by James Gurney (http://www.amazon.ca/Color-Light-Guide-Realist-Painter/dp/0740797719/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328135571&sr=8-1), a book that has finally explained color painting theories and given me plenty of tips. In the book he talks about what you should look for when purchasing paint. You should avoid colors that have American Society for Testing Materials (ASTM) rating of II or I--these colors are lightfast, which means they will not fade quickly with time. You can find ASTM rating on the back of the color tube.
Which colors should you get?
Refer to the watercolor section. Look for the similar colors in acrylic. However, you will also need a lot of titanium white and a warmer white (maybe unbleached titanium or parchment), and a little mars black and ivory black (ivory is warm black while mars is cool black).
Mediums.
To get most out of your acrylic you will need a Matte Medium which will allow you to thin your paint into transparent layers. You also need to get an acrylic retarder, which will keep your paint from drying too quickly.
Tip: Lay out your acrylic paint inside a plastic box on top of water saturated paper towels to keep the paint from drying quickly, and/or fill a spray bottle with a retarder and water mixture and spray your palette to keep it from drying.
Brushes.
You should purchase a variety of acrylic brushes. Some large and broad for laying down lots of background color, brushes with long handles for large areas, a fan brush is excellent for painting grass, small round brushes for details.
Brush Holder.
The best place to keep your brushes is to lay them in a bamboo brush holder. It does not damage the brushes, and you can store them without waiting for them to dry.
You can paint on a variety of surfaces: watercolor paper, canvas, masonite board, etc.
Fixative:
What is a fixative?
A fixative is a type of spray (looks like a hairspray bottle) you spray over your drawing or painting to keep it from getting damaged. A workable fixative is not as dense as a finishing fixative, and will allow you to keep redrawing, without smudging your work accidentally (great for conté, graphite, charcoal, pastels...)
Once you are finished with your work, you should spray it with a permanent or finishing fixative. Spray outside and at least 3 feet away from your painting, drawing, etc. It will protect your work, and depending on the fixative you buy, give your work a sheen.
LIFE-DRAWING
A very important part of an artist's career is drawing nude models, better known as life-drawing.
The usual materials you will need at the beginning are a lot of newsprint pads,
conté sticks, charcoal or Prismacolor NuPastels if you like color, sandpaper sharpener, sharpening knife, some
conté or pastel pencils, and a kneaded eraser. You can also get some paper-towel for smudging.
Well, that is about it for this month. I have not included information about oil painting or sculpting, because I do not have much experience in either medium. I tried oil painting only to discover that the smell of turpentine made me faint, while sculpture was something I never enjoyed doing. However, if you would like more information on either discipline please contact me and I will ask a few friends who are experts in both.
You may leave any comments and ask any questions here, or e-mail me: art.help@artofmili.ca.
If you have any suggestions regarding future articles, please do not hesitate to contact me either.
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Coming in March 2012: Sketching!
Thank you for reading Art: Help!
Mili Fay
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